Geometric study of monochromatic wave breaking on beaches

She, Kaiming and Canning, Paul (2006) Geometric study of monochromatic wave breaking on beaches Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 133 (5). pp. 334-342. ISSN 0733-950X

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Abstract

A Video Image Processing (VIP) technique has been developed for the study of free surface water waves. The technique allows detailed examination of continuous image sequences of progressing waves, providing a complete and precise geometric description of an evolving breaking wave. Wave breaking on sloping beaches has been investigated under monochromatic sea conditions and geometric parameters of a large number of breakers have been obtained. The bed slope was found to influence the breaking wave height and depth relationship. A number of new empirical equations have been derived defining the functional relationship between the non-dimensional breaking height Hb/gT2 and breaking depth db/gT2, between the breaking wave steepness Hb/Lb and relative depth db/Lb, and between the breaking height to depth ration Hb/db and non-dimensional breaking depth db/gT2.

Item Type:Journal article
Uncontrolled Keywords:Breaking waves, breaking criteria, imaging techniques, wave measurements
Subjects:H000 Engineering > H200 Civil Engineering > H210 Structural Engineering
H000 Engineering > H200 Civil Engineering
DOI (a stable link to the resource):10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X
Faculties:Faculty of Science and Engineering > School of Environment and Technology > Ground water and structural engineering
Faculty of Science and Engineering > School of Environment and Technology
ID Code:1707
Deposited By:editor environment
Deposited On:25 Jan 2008
Last Modified:21 Mar 2013 02:17

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