Geometric study of monochromatic wave breaking on beaches
She, Kaiming and Canning, Paul (2006) Geometric study of monochromatic wave breaking on beaches Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 133 (5). pp. 334-342. ISSN 0733-950X
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A Video Image Processing (VIP) technique has been developed for the study of free surface water waves. The technique allows detailed examination of continuous image sequences of progressing waves, providing a complete and precise geometric description of an evolving breaking wave. Wave breaking on sloping beaches has been investigated under monochromatic sea conditions and geometric parameters of a large number of breakers have been obtained. The bed slope was found to influence the breaking wave height and depth relationship. A number of new empirical equations have been derived defining the functional relationship between the non-dimensional breaking height Hb/gT2 and breaking depth db/gT2, between the breaking wave steepness Hb/Lb and relative depth db/Lb, and between the breaking height to depth ration Hb/db and non-dimensional breaking depth db/gT2.
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